Chiesa dei Santi Nazario e Celso – Valle Intelvi
An Unexpected Place
Heading north along the road that passes through the center of Scaria (Alta Valle Intelvi), you suddenly find yourself standing before the gate of a small stone church, set within a quiet and intimate landscape. The church also shelters an ancient cemetery, adding further depth and atmosphere to the setting.
As you open the gate, for an immediate “wow” effect, we recommend turning right and walking along the side of the church. The solid stone walls, remarkably well preserved, reveal a powerful structure with thick base masonry and refined mullioned windows that frame the light beautifully. Continue forward, turn left at the corner, and lift your gaze: the frescoed vaults, understated yet evocative, tell sacred stories softened by time but still alive in the memory of the place.
The corridor is slightly dim… but do not stop. Walk all the way to the end and pause for a moment. Before you opens the loggia, with its harmonious stone columns — simple and balanced. Here, Romanesque architecture meets the essential character of mountain churches, creating a perfect equilibrium. On a clear day, during the central hours, sunlight illuminates the painted surfaces and wall decorations, revealing their authentic beauty in full.
Historical and Artistic Notes
The Church of Saints Nazario and Celso has Romanesque origins dating back at least to the 12th century, although certain elements were modified in later periods. It is one of the oldest sacred buildings in the Intelvi Valley. Its present appearance — simple yet solemn — reflects architectural stratifications that blend Romanesque and Baroque elements.
Inside, particularly within the lateral loggia, one can still admire 15th- and 16th-century frescoes, likely created by local artists influenced by the Lombard schools of the time. The subjects are religious, yet what stands out is their intimate and serene composition, perfectly aligned with the spiritual character of the site.
A Curious Detail
According to local tradition, the loggia once served as a shelter for travelers and pilgrims journeying between Como and Canton Ticino. The church stands along one of the ancient Alpine transit routes, which historically connected these regions.
In the small adjacent cemetery, some gravestones bear only numbers. These mark anonymous or very old burials, often of poor individuals or victims of epidemics whose names have been lost over time. The small stone angels watching over the graves add a touching sense of delicacy and humanity.
Conclusion
A visit to this place is an experience of silence, beauty, and memory. Let the details — a column, a faded fresco, a number carved into stone — speak for themselves.
We invite you to enter with respect and sensitivity: the Church of Saints Nazario and Celso is a hidden treasure, recounting centuries of history with the quiet voice of authentic things.